Wednesday, May 18, 2005

Shortcake Wall - Reimers

On Sunday, Sean and I slept in then hit up Reimers. Going on Russell's advice, we went to Shortcake Wall, also known as Oblivion Wall. He said that's where he warms up. For us, it would be climbing for the day..warm ups..pshaw right! :p

Reimers, greener than ever!!! Posted by Hello

Since it had rained a bit, Reimers was looking greener and lusher than ever!!! The trailways were covered from above with greenery. Beautiful place. Since we hadn't ever been to Shortcake Wall, we weren't sure quite *where* to go. We followed the path -- Sean took the high road, I took the low road. We found "The Dark Side" wall, and then walked on a bit and found Shortcake Wall.

There was no one there. Nice and quiet. We could her voices from the other side of the creek -- people at Dead Cats, the busy spot. We decided to work our way from left to right, for the most part. I lead "Got a Dollar?", a 5.7, as my first climb. It was pretty easy. Then Sean toproped it and cleaned the route.

Me on "Got a Dollar?", a 5.7 Posted by Hello

Sean on "Got a Dollar?" Posted by Hello

Sean cleaning "Got a Dollar?" Posted by Hello

Next up was "Crack Ate the Pipe", a 5.8 that I lead and Sean toproped and cleaned. Fairly easy. The start was a bit odd, took a bit of finagling, but I got it.

Me on "Crack Ate the Pipe", a 5.8 Posted by Hello

Taking a pic of myself while Sean's cleaning "Crack Ate the Pipe" - I'm off belay, of course :p Posted by Hello

Sean rappelling down "Crack Ate the Pipe" Posted by Hello

After that, I was hungry, so we took a break. I had only had two slices of cinnamon raisin toast and a yogurt cup for brunch..not too filling. While we were on break, we were scanning out the next climb, a supposed 5.9 - "Gut Punch the Buddha". These two guys came over, and asked if they could try it out, and they did. I thought they'd be quick so we could get on it..but they struggled and struggled. So after I finished eating, we hit up one route that looked interesting. They guys had pulled the rope off of the route, but left the gear up. But I looked at the route map, and found that something was of the routes was missing. Sure enough, it was the one the guys were just on. They said it was more like a 5.11. Good thing we didnt' jump on it, then! :p

So Sean tried to lead "Fat Chicks Tryin' to be Sexy", a 5.10a. He tried and tried and tried, but could not pull the 3rd bolt. So he eventually gave up. Good tries, though.

After that, we jumped on "Gut Punch the Buddha" -- the real route, a 5.9. Sean lead the route, and I toproped it. And I also cleaned it - my first cleaned route! :p Amazingly, I wasn't nervous about cleaning the route. Well..the thought of dropping the rope..being stranded on the top of the rock, only to have two pieces of vinyl strapping keeping you safe...I mean, I wasn't *too* nervous. Sean talked me through the steps of cleaning the top, I did it calmly, and decided aw heck, I'll just rappell down as well! I had trouble setting up the rappel -- the rope didn't want to go through the ATC at first, but then I got it. There was so much friction, that I kept on stopping and it was a bumpy descent. Fun, nevertheless. Now I can clean routes..yay me!! :D

Me cleaning "Gut Punch the Buddha", a 5.9 - first cleaning Posted by Hello

Me cleaning "Gut Punch the Buddha" Posted by Hello

Me cleaning "Gut Punch the Buddha" Posted by Hello

Me rappelling down "Gut Punch the Buddha" Posted by Hello

Working our way to the far right of the wall, Sean lead "Hat Dance", a 5.9, rated as "technical". He struggled a bit, found a slippery polished foot that he didn't like, but eventually pulled the route. Definitely looked like a fun one, so when he was done, I toproped it. I didn't want to get my confidence shot down by *attempting* to lead it..just..well, felt like 5.8 leading at the moment. It was a great and fun route to work on! I struggled with the bottom, since I'm short...just couldn't get some of the holds...but smeared on the areas that Sean had problems on, and I smeared just fine. It was a neat route!

Sean on top of "Hat Dance", a 5.9 Posted by Hello

I wanted to top rope "Fat Chicks Tryin' to be Sexy", so Sean top roped up "Hat Dance", did a tricky traverse over, and set up the toprope for Fat Chicks. A 5.10a, I wanted to be challenged. And I was. What a tricky start!!! I tried and tried and tried, until I pulled some key moves...found a secret crimper to pull myself up...then after that, it was a cakewalk! I did it, my second toproped 5.10a!!! :) I was excited! Sean toproped it after me, found some key crimpers and holds to pull the 3rd time, he'll get it!

Me at the top of "Fat Chicks Tryin' to be Sexy", a 5.10a Posted by Hello

Sean at the top of "Fat Chicks Tryin' to be Sexy" Posted by Hello

We decided to end the day there, because it was getting cloudy and felt really humid like it was soon going to rain.


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