Tuesday, May 03, 2005

Kick ass Sunday climbing at Reimers!!!


Reimers ranch -- so lush and green Posted by Hello

More greenery of Reimers Posted by Hello
On Sunday, Sean and I headed down to Reimers Ranch for a full day of climbing. We got there around 10 am, and didn't leave till about 7 pm!!! I totally kicked ass. :)

I really wanted to do some outdoor leading, so we first went to Zoe's Wall. Russell had told me that Zoe's was good for learning to lead. Zoe's Wall is far from impressive -- only an 18 foot wall. But hey, baby steps! Gotta start from somewhere!

I first jumped on "I Never Called You a Beast", a 5.6*** route. It's two bolts and then the top, and climb over a small ledge. Easy. But yes, I did *need* it as a confidence boost. Seriously. I felt so good after doing it. My first outdoor lead!!! But I really wanted to get used to leading outdoors, the psychological factors involved (being above protection, etc), putting in the quickdraw, clipping in, etc. This one was a great start to the day.

Finished with my first outdoor lead ever - "I Never Called You a Beast" Posted by Hello


I left the quickdraws at the top, so then Sean toproped the route, climbed it in seconds, and cleaned the top, then rapped down.

Sean rapelling down "I Never Called You a Beast" Posted by Hello


Naturally, I then went on to lead "Maggie's Farm", a 5.6** route. There's a cute little cave that you have to climb past on the route. Again, piece of cake. A great confidence booster!

Finished with my 2nd outdoor lead climb - "Maggie's Farm" Posted by Hello

Sean cleaning "Maggie's Farm" Posted by Hello


And thinking...third time's a charm! I decided I would *try* to lead "Zoe's First Step, a 5.8! The two bolts looked easy to get to...it was the second bolt to the finish that looked really iffy - the crux. I said to myself..I've gotta at least *try* and see how far I get...and I kicked ass!!! Yeah, I made the two bolts easily...knew that I had to use a ledge to make it to the top. It took a few tries, but I never gave up...and I made it!!! Yeah! I was so excited that I made that 5.8. I mean, the 5.6's before...yeah, I knew I'd get those..but the 5.8...I really doubted myself...but I got it!!! :D

Third outdoor lead - "Zoe's First Step" Posted by Hello

Sean rapelling donw "Zoe's First Step" Posted by Hello


There were two bolts about 5 feet up on Zoe's wall, so I had Sean teach me how to clean a route there - that way, there was no stress of dropping the rope! Great place to learn and practice.

Cowboy up! A guy climbing with a cowboy hat Posted by Hello

A shaved husky that was at Reimers - his neck is so skinny!! Posted by Hello


After that, we headed on to rock Dead Cats Wall. We ran into quite a few familiar faces - Cindy, Mari, Rachel, and some other familiar looking people. Dead Cats was busy as ever. Not many routes to choose from initially. But I was feeling pumped up and confident. So I said, heck, I just did a 5.8. Why not...try and lead "Back Flip", a 5.9**. I mean, heck, why not? Well, Sean lead it first, and left the draws at the top. Then it was my turn...

Sean leading "Name Unknown" on Dead Cats Wall Posted by Hello


What a freakin' awesome climb!!! Well...I didn't make it *all* the way to the anchors..but damn close. So I got to the first, second, third bolts...pumpy pumpy route. Sometimes pulling crazy crimps and small pinches so I didn't fall off the wall...rested at the third bolt, pondered how to make the moves to the end...now..if..I..was..just...2..inches..taller..."Take!" Pondered more..worked my way up to a flake, pulled my body up, up higher. I was way above my protection now! All was left was a traverse over to the anchors...there were virtually no (minimal) feet, you have to get yourself over a bulge...I just didn't see it happening, I was hanging on for dear life...I started to get really, really nervous. The thought of falling some 10 feet...I got more nervous, scared. Chicken shit. I downclimbed as close to the last bolt as I could, and there got to a point where I had trouble downclimbing...I didn't want to take a fall...I really didn't, I hung on to the wall for what seemed to be an eternity...then I just had to let go. Granted it was only a 2-3 foot fall, I yelped some ungodly sound as I fell. I just freaked and got so scared up there. Sean told me to try one more time...but I just couldn't...not at that time. I was thus, defeated...and had him lower me down. But what an adrenaline rush!!!


So...after that, I decided...well, maybe I should stick with 5.8 and below leading...I mean, I toprope a 5.9 and that's about it...


Dead Cats cleared out quite a bit after that. We headed down to the far left side of the wall, where the easy stuff is. I hopped on "Lessa the Purramatic 6000 Kitty", a 5.5*** route that is extremely juggy. Super easy. Fun, nevertheless. My 4th lead ever! Since there were D style clips at the top, I just flipped the rope into them and then took the quickdraws off, rather than properly cleaning the top.

4th completed lead of the day - "Lessa the Purramatic 6000 Kitty" Posted by Hello


Okay, that one was way too easy..I mean a 5.5. :p So I hopped on "Hissing Cloe", a 5.8..thinking that since I did the 5.8 on Zoe's Wall, I could conquer this one...think again. So the topo says, "Climb to top for an exciting finish"...yes...I worked my way through that one just fine, except from the last bolt to the finish. It's all slopy, not much to chose from when it comes to hands...you have to crawl, lean, smear..to get to the anchors. Being above my protection...I gave up...just couldn't do it. I sent Sean back up there to retrieve the draws he left up there when he lead it...


Feeling defeated again, I hopped on "Rolly Polly Coco Kitty", a 5.7**. Nice fun route, and I got it..yeah! Fifth outdoor lead ever and for the day! Well, I did feel quite accomplished since I did my first 5 outdoor leads.


We played around that area for a while, I bouldered for fun, traversed a bit. It was nice because it's such a juggy area, and there's a lot of hands and feet to choose from.



Bouldering on Dead Cats wall Posted by Hello

Boldering on Dead Cats wall Posted by Hello

Bouldering on Dead Cats wall Posted by Hello

Goofy pic...hey, check out all my gear :p Quickdraws, slings, n more! Posted by Hello


Sean wanted to try Reimerama again, his nemisis from last time. It's a 5.10a*. Looks insanely difficult. He got some beta from an odd fellow..the beta worked! And he worked his way up from bolt to bolt, all the way to the anchors. He did an excellent job.


Since it was already roped, I decided to toprope the route for the hell of it. I mean, I didn't think I was going to get it..seriously...the best I'd done outdoors was a 5.9. The bottom section was a tough one to work through. I tried, and tried, and tried...and that block you just 'stand up and reach'...is just so far...I somehow worked my way, using intermediary small crimps and pinches, bringing my feet higher, and...ah...the block!!! Reimerama proved very interesting...the bottom up to the block is pretty sparse, especially for shorties like me. The middle section was nice and textured. Some great holds. Some great feet at parts. And the top was a different texture, too..not smooth or polished, but reachy (for me), I had to use some crazy maneuvars with tiny crimps and pinches and high steps..and finally..."At the top!!!" I looked around, saw the trees surrounding below, and the Perdenales River in the valley behind the trees. Ahhhh...my first 5.10a. I felt awesome!!!


We packed up our gear and then headed on to Sex Cave for a little last minute bouldering on our way out. We got lost on one trail, accidentally went up to Zoe's wall again, went downhill...got confused, and eventually found the trail back :p

Sean taking a break on the hike from Dead Cats to Sex Cave Posted by Hello

Checking out the greenery - so lush! Posted by Hello


Sex Cave was fun..er...I mean the bouldering or rather attempting to boulder around there. Some guys we ran into said it was at least V2 bouldering there. I just wanted to play around on the wall, looked fun, even if I didn't get that far.



Sex Cave Posted by Hello

Just being goofy - I'm holding myself off the ground with my arms :p Posted by Hello

Sean bouldering in Sex Cave Posted by Hello

Sex Cave bouldering Posted by Hello

Sex Cave bouldering Posted by Hello

Sex Cave bouldering Posted by Hello

Sex Cave bouldering Posted by Hello

Sex Cave bouldering Posted by Hello

Sex Cave bouldering Posted by Hello

Sex Cave bouldering Posted by Hello

Sex Cave bouldering Posted by Hello

Sex Cave bouldering Posted by Hello

Sex Cave bouldering Posted by Hello

Sex cave bouldering Posted by Hello

Sex Cave bouldering Posted by Hello

Sex Cave bouldering Posted by Hello

Sex Cave bouldering Posted by Hello

Sex Cave bouldering Posted by Hello

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